Many local chefs are talented, but greatly frustrated

Seldom are we privy to the back of the house activities of hotels or posh restaurants. But if one had to single out the most important, surely the kitchen would be the premiere activity and justifiably so.

We owe International Chefs Day to the late Dr Billy Gallagher, a famous chef, who retired from the Dorchester Hotel, in London and moved to South Africa in 1973, to take up the position of executive sous chef at a local hotel chain Southern Sun.

While in South Africa, he was elected president of the South African Association for 21 years, before becoming an honorary life president.

Sadly, in 2,000, he was involved in an attempted car hijacking, which left him paralysed as a quadriplegic. Four years later, he founded the International Chefs Day, to honour the wonderful talented and dedicated chefs.

Chefs who have transformed the kitchens the world over into beehives of untold creative and inspiring culinary edifices. This special day serves as a reminder of the dedication, dynamism and artistry that they bring to their craft.

This past Sunday, we were invited to celebrate this August event at the Lake Victoria Serena Hotel, kudos to executive chef, Anthony Kenga, the overall in charge of the kitchen brigade, for coming up with the idea of more than just a culinary display of his team, but also featuring the human face of his staff in form of dance and songs.

Seldom are we privy to the back of the house activities of hotels and for many, this area is mainly focused with accounts, warehouse etc. These are all very important, but if one had to single out the most important, surely the kitchen would be the premiere activity and justifiably so.

No wonder George Bernard Shaw once remarked: “There is no sincerer love than the love of food.” Chef’s Day at Serena presented us with an opportunity to meet and greet a team of 92, who were introduced to us on the stage.

At the same occasion, the hotel also introduced and recognised stakeholders, who form the supply chain to the hotel, in more ways than one. As might be expected, the food arrangement held in an al fresco setting, was superb, with a vast spectrum of starters and beverages.

The service was attentive and on the money. All in all, it was a very worthwhile event, and more hotels and restaurants ought to have picked a leaf from the Serena Hotel.

Sadly, while chefs in America and Europe make a very decent and respectable living and many earn a King’s Ransom, not so in Uganda.

In America, top level chefs earn between Shs245m, approximately $67,000 and Shs311m $85,000 per annum. While many get upwards of Shs403m, the topmost ex chef can easily gross Shs440m. Here in Uganda an ex-chef earning Shs3m to Shs5m per month, would be considered well paid, and those are far and few in between.

The advice I would give to our chefs with a good 10 years of solid experience under their belt in a stellar restaurant is;

Ask for some skin in the business 

Aspire to owning your own joint, wherein you can take full control. Unfortunately, as is all too often the case, good chefs do not make good businessmen. With good planning and goodwill, one can find angels willing to invest in a venture and while this is common in America and Europe, in Uganda due to a myriad of reasons, amongst which is honesty and poor or non-existent management structures, it is a no brainer and there are hardly any examples that one can cite. 

Did you know for instance that Jamie Oliver, 49, the celebrity chef and restaurateurs net worth is Shs860bn, while Gordon Ramsey, 57, net worth is Shs432bn? The list is endless.

Historically, chefs in Uganda have earned a reputation of being notorious at enjoying a tipple or two, which in turn becomes habitual; a matter that may well be related to the enormous physical heat and pressure of the kitchen commensurate with low pay and poor working conditions. Many are talented, but greatly frustrated. 

Event: Chef’s Day Sunday

Venue: Lake Victoria Serena Golf Resort & Spa, Kigo

Smoke-Free Zone: Proscribed in public areas 

Recommended items: The Sunday Grills were remarkable 

Service: Excellent 

Ambience: Copasetic and definitely par for the course

Open: Daily till late

Menu: Salad Bar—a variety of salads and cold platters. From the pot --- Exotic and traditional authentic food. Active cooking --- pancake and waffles. Pasta station: A wide choice of pasta from which to choose. The Sunday Grills – an assortment of meats expertly done and covering a wide range of origins from the lake to the land including poultry. Carvery. Desserts and Bakery. The wok – frying samosas, mahamri, kaimati, viazi karai. Ice cream parlor

The Crowd: A wide selection of revilers and well-wishers including business partners who are part of the supply chain. 

Brunch Cocktail Bar: Cocktail pairing with the great food on offer viz. Sangria, Bloody and Virgin Mary, mimosa, Rose lemonade et al

The damage: Shs 110’000 per person

Sound level: Good

Rating: Not to be missed

Parking: Available and abundant and totally secure

If you go: Sunday brunch

RATINGS: Not to be missed, worth a visit, OK/so so, don’t waste your time.