The Hidden Gem of the Virgin Lands of West Nile

Recently the Uganda Tourism Board led a process of branding Destination Uganda. When the brand “Explore Uganda, the Pearl of Africa” was unveiled to the world, a few people wondered exactly what was there to explore in Uganda. Some even thought that they knew the country so well that they did not have to explore anything new. But they were wrong. Uganda never ceases to amaze, and there’s so much to explore. 
There is a part of Uganda that remains unknown, undiscovered and virgin in many respects. 

The West Nile Region.  This region is Uganda’s most hidden virgin gem that awaits the world to find. The region is buzzing with vibrant cultures, history and biodiversity. 
You may not even be aware that “the Conqueror of the British Empire”, Field Marshal Idi Amin, Uganda’s iconic president, was born and raised in this region. And his family quietly lives there. But this is a story for another day. Let me tell you why and what you need to explore in West Nile.
 
You may not know that more than 100 years ago a former US President, Theodore Roosevelt visited Uganda. His ultimate destination was the West Nile. His eyes could not believe the sight of the elegant, huge and “gentle” white rhinos, relaxing, feeding and playing by the banks of the River Nile. Of course, he hunted down a few and took some trophies, but the rhino populations kept growing as food and water was in abundance. 

For the decades that followed, visitors from all over the world travelled to West Nile just to enjoy the sight of the white rhinos. These visitations inspired one of the region’s chiefs, Ajai, to set aside a reserve where the rhinos would happily live forever. 

Although Ajai passed on in the early 1950s, the reserve still exists today and is in the safe hands of the Government of Uganda. The gentle giants were poached to extinction but a restoration programme has been on for the last 25 years, and plans are in advanced stages to return the white rhinos to their motherland. 

Rumour has it that the incoming rhinos may be descendants of the last one that was airlifted from the very place where Roosevelt first met a Rhino face to face. 
The reserve is going to be restocked with giraffes and other grazers to clear the bushes and recreate the kind of landscape that it was known for a few decades ago. As these plans are underway, new things are happening. 

The family of Chief Ajai, led by two of his 104 surviving children, has gathered the best dancers from the community to perform one of Uganda’s best cultural dances. The performance is energetic, entertaining, beautiful and connects you the deep roots of the Madi culture. The community has mastered the art of preparing fresh and delicious fish-based traditional dishes. 
There’s deep-held knowledge in basketry, blacksmithing, ancient architecture, sailing and herbal medicine that you can only find in this part of the world. 

Not far from Ajai are three remarkable things that everyone needs to see. First, in the same location where the rhinos used to roam is a ship that sunk up to the bed of River Nile. 
The local fishermen see the wreckage every day and sometimes its masts knock their boats. It is rumoured that this ship belonged to Sir Samuel Baker, a Great Britain Governor who was committed to fighting and ending slave trade. Indeed, this area has vivid evidence of slave trade, including metallic poles that were erected by the slave raiders, and a reception point where the captured slaves saw their land for the very last time as they boarded the steamers further north through Sudan and Egypt. 

Second, there is a small island and swamp that is a breeding site for the shoebill stork. This is an endangered bird which has not changed its appearance and habits since prehistoric times. A bird that can stay motionless for the whole day, stalking prey.  If you want to have a look at some of the creatures that lived millions of years ago, look no further and go no further! Come to West Nile. 

Third, and most importantly, at the entrance to West Nile, at Pakwach bridge, you will meet a man who is believed to be the Guardian of the Nile. This 70-year-old man was born on 18th February, the same day and month his father and grandfather were born. His successor, a 32-year-old young man was also born on the same day. 
All of them are born on the same day. The magic behind February 18 is that on that day he goes to a specific spot on the banks of the Nile (known as Wanglei), performs a ritual, and the gods come and take him to the underworld for an hour. 

He enters the Nile water in full sight of local people, and visitors alike, and goes to what he describes as a beautiful city that makes our earth look like trash. Shockingly, he returns from the water completely dry, without even a drop on his shirt. He describes many beautiful things about that world and tells of all sorts of nice people that he meets every year on February 18. 
You may think that these things are so far away from civilisation but they are not. The furthest of all these beautiful things is just about one’s drive away from Murchison Falls National Park. 

If you want to explore the Pearl of Africa, try West Nile. When you return, you may have found so much more from a region we all know so little about.  Many nice and professional local tour operators and guides will arrange for you,  a memorable exploration trip to the region. Whether you want it by bike, car or boat, they are available to help you.  

The writer, Celestine Katongole is head of, Tourism Management Department at Makerere University Business School