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A taste of Ankole’s cultural heritage
What you need to know:
IGONGO CULTURAL CENTRE. Connecting with the past is always such an adventure especially because it brings one close to their heritage. Exploring Ankole’s culture was an exciting experience.
It stands erect and imposing like a transmission mast. It provokes such mammoth enthusiasm for that no one can ignore it. As my taxi makes its way to the “land of milk and honey”(Mbarara) the sign post of Igongo Cultural Centre becomes my light house leading the way to the place where the future meets the past.
Stopping over was not only fascinating, but also overwhelmingly dreamlike. This gave me fodder to feed on, to come up with theories and to give my prediction as to how this place looked like. Ideas of Ankole’s Kasubi tombs didn’t escape my thoughts. It was difficult to suppress the imaginary fear that it was a sacred healing centre and when you reached there you would dead in a few seconds. Okay, this is a bit of an exaggeration but I hope you get the idea.
Igongo is a civil society initiative creating solid works with an epitome of originality to preserve and promote cultural and natural heritage of southwestern Uganda. The little murrum road running nearly parallel to the Masaka-Mbarara highway almost obscure by the road side barriers led us to our final destination. As we approached the arched gate way that marked the entrance, a statue of a long horned Ankole cow surrounded by little egrets can be seen nudging in the serene ambiance. It’s a beautiful work of architecture, finished light brown with betel green combinations.
The iron gates open into a tarmacked compound flanked by flower beds and a grassy lawn at the end.
From its summit few metres above sea level, a breathtaking panoramic view unfolds topography of the plains and hills that make a complete and sparkling physical profile of Lake Mbuuro National Game Park.
“Twakushemererwa...”(We are happy to see you) is the least I can remember as Emmanuel my host and guide said as he ushered me into the Erijukiro museum. With amazement in my voice, I asked him whether the whole tour was about to continue in Runyankole. Muchuguzi has a sense of humour and really likes to laugh. He laughed and assured me he was just creating the feeling of western Uganda.
Ankole’s artifacts happen to be the biggest thing in Igongo with spears, shields clearly placed in glass blocks and tastefully decorated with their respective names in Runyankole which the guides explain in connection to the culture.
Through the different corridors of the museum, are different art pieces depicting the livelihood of the south western Ugandan people, all unearthed in the clay models of agricultural home steads with background paintings of hills. More vivid is a clay model of a herds man and respect he receives from his wife and children backed with reed mats in its back ground.
Continuing the theme brown and cream that features on the exterior walls, is the wall of fame. An African theme is ongoing, as seen in the decorative gourds, baskets from clay and woven reed.
The love for animals also manifests through the painting and sculptures of animals especially the cow and the lining of totems and taboos of different clans.
The walls are laden with paintings of cultural objects and photographs of their local leaders right from the charming black and white studio photos of former cultural leaders to the present digital pictures of different sceneries around Ankole kingdom.
Art, just like life, has a way of turning up the tempo. When you think you have it all wrapped, another dice is rolled and game plan changes,or rather advances. The Mbuuro gardens, one of the most refreshing and well natured, graced with blossoming flowers of traditionally treasured and cherished plants such as the Enkukuru which has a wide shed a tranquil wind sweeping across the garden whispering calmness into my soul. I wish I could tell you that was the end of my sojourn, it was not.
Kaahwa Kanuzire restaurant did it all with its name only wetting my appetite. The way to a man’s heart is definitely through his stomach. It was characterised by great service and I enjoyed the place as I dug into the delicious Ankole cuisine flavored with eshabwe.
Along everybody’s journey in life, our paths cross and connect with people and places for a while and then the natural order of things are that paths separate.
By 7pm, my connection with Igongo Cultural Centre was deep and I will maintain the emotional connection by keeping a finger on the pulse of my exploration. The centre is located 16kilometres from Mbarara along Masaka road.
Attractions
Erijukiro( Museum of Western Uganda)
Eiteramiro/ cultural village
Kaahwa Kanuzire Restaurant
Nkwanzi Crafts and book shorp
Mbuuro gardens
The Ankole traditional pots on display at the centre
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