The caves are such a sight to behold while at the Mise Cave in Sipi-Kapchorwa District. Photo | Trevor Lutalo
On the slopes of the Elgon, the small town of Sipi in Kapchorwa District known for its high-altitude waterfalls, great hiking trails, abseiling, and unique weather is a gift that keeps giving owing to its noteworthy buffet of tourism offerings. My stay at Mise Cave Lodge was one to revel in as it opened me to the awe-inducing Sipi.
The six-hour drive to the eastern district will take you through historical yet contemporary places, but once the hills start rolling into each other and the breeze gets fresher amidst horizons that hide behind peaks and mist, you are definitely in Sipi.
During my brief stay, Mise Cave Lodge seemed to be carved out of the hill it stands on. It is covered in tall green trees, and set amidst banana and coffee plantations. The lodge consists of five different blocks, detached from each other but arranged neatly to give it a modern and clean appearance. On top of the neat architectural glamour is the natural waterfall that echoes sounds as if it were music plus a cave that has a lengthy cultural history.
My room was right next to the waterfalls, featuring a huge glass window that offered views of the tumbling water that is to die for. I had the option to either gaze at the mesmerising water flow or step outside for an invigorating natural bath.
Caving
As my host, Aaron Chemutai gives me a tour of the cave, he tells me that for generations the Sebei people have observed a set of rituals at this particular cave ahead of circumcision.
“For the Sebei people, circumcision is a rite of passage for the boys. Inside this cave many have attained their manhood, but in groups. On top of these rituals, our cultural leader in the olden days used to live inside this cave. We have been able to preserve his bed made of animal skin,” Chemutai explains.
As night falls, lanterns light the path to the cave. Inside, a bonfire provides warmth as guests gather around to share old and new stories. This unique experience is enriched by the diverse backgrounds of the guests from within the country and the world who take part in the storytelling.
Chemutai is, however, keen to pass on stories about the Sebei culture, he tells the fortunate tales and the origins of his people so well that it makes you realise that he has done his research.
Coffee talks
The eastern part of Uganda has been known for growing the Arabica coffee variety, which thrives in high altitudes and is preferred to Robusta coffee for its superior taste. The lodge offers guests the opportunity to participate in the coffee-making process, from the farm to the cup.
My coffee guide, Francis Musoro, explained that coffee was first discovered in the Ethiopian highlands before spreading across the continent.
We picked coffee cherries from the trees while my guide explained the process that would lead to a final cup, from drying to roasting and grinding, all completed in just a few hours. The coffee processed from this farm is served at the lodge’s restaurant by an experienced barista making it very convenient to enjoy an early-morning espresso.
Hiking and abseiling at the Sipi Waterfalls
A trail that goes through the community decorated by coffee plantations and food gardens until you are 1,200 feet above sea level. It is quite a challenge but a fun activity for groups and individuals.
It is a way to “reconnect with nature” says my guide. With the earth wet and slippery from a morning downpour, a group of tourists is ahead of us on this very challenge.
Our trail covers the three main falls of Sipi with the highest said to be at 1,770 metres above sea level, at this point, you can see the highs and lows of the town with Mount Elgon forming a backdrop covered in mist and greenery.
About six kilometres in, sweat starts to drip in clear patterns on many faces to match their panting regardless of the cold weather. Nonetheless, the views are igniting enough to keep us going. We make several stops on our way through the first and second falls but a daring moment was ushered in by the final falls where we tried abseiling.
Strapped in harnesses and hard plastic helmets we were set to lower ourselves about 110 metres hanging by a rope, an adrenaline-pumping activity that should not miss on any itinerary.
