A prized gem of an eatery

As good fortune would have it, an opportunity to take up a different and more challenging situation came up in the form of running a new restaurant in the recently built ultra luxurious Labournum Courts in Nakasero. Indeed, while her boss lamented Edith’s departure, it was nevertheless with his full blessing and in true fashion, the people she groomed to run the show have risen to the challenge and State House is none the worse off without her.

Amina Moghe Hersi, the enterprising owner of the vast Labournum property, had been looking for somebody who could independently run and manage a fine restaurant and she did not have far to look. Amina is no stranger to the corridors of power and she was drawn to Edith through her reputation at her place of work. Needless to say, Amina had frequently sampled Edith’s cooking at different state banquets and other occasions and when the time came to make the decision, there was never any doubt in her mind as to who would be her first choice.

One of the most remarkable features about Edith is her down-to-earth nature. She is self effacing and incredibly hardworking and above all, remains a hands-on person. Despite residing in Entebbe, come hell or high water, she is out of the house by 5:45a.m and at her place of work before 7a.m. She attributes her time keeping and overall sense of responsibility to none other than her mentor, our very own President.

I am the first to confess that this prized gem of an eatery was unknown to me (until recently) and all I can say is that it is, it’s just as well that it has remained a well-kept secret while they work out the teething problems that are often present with any new joint. Not to say that we encountered any. On the contrary, the service was as smooth as one could wish - all in all par for the course, with the added attraction of good, wholesome and well prepared food.

The décor is simple and understated, and the space between the tables - fewer than 20 - is vast and allows for a modicum of privacy frequently unobserved in Kampala joints. There is also a lounge where one can relax while waiting for a date and best of all, the alfresco setting on the roof and by the swimming pool beats most.

The buffet is elegantly displayed in high quality chafing dishes which are definitely fitting for a place of this stature. First came the soup with homemade buns. We were offered a choice of at least three salads including a coleslaw, avocado and another that slips my mind. Here in Uganda, the mark of any joint that serves local food has to be their matooke. Given the finicky and demanding nature of steamed matooke in terms of preparations and serving, very few places in town have mastered the art of how to ensure that one is always served perfect matooke. While the Serena Kampala Hotel knows the answer, happily, the same can be said of Edith’s place. Even at 2p.m, the matooke was still piping hot and as soft and tasty as one would expect. The rice was of two types, steamed and fried, or Pilao. Then there were the exquisitely made potato puffs and the wonderful mini vegetable pizzas.

Naturally there was a slew of carbs that are never absent on a local buffet - fresh peas, groundnut sauce and heady chunks of beef fillet drizzled in some form of a wine sauce. The fish fillet was pan fried and as for the chicken, I could not resist going back for a second helping.

For the moment, the place is far from being crowded or overly busy. In the midst of the hurly burly congestion in the city, this place offers a profound sense of peace that very few of Kampala’s restaurants can offer.